Knowledge is Power

It is of utmost importance for goats to have the companionship of other goats.  Goats are herd animals who are happiest and healthiest in the company of other goats.  An only goat will often cry because they are lonely, act depressed or unsettled.  Goats take comfort and a sense of safety in a friend. 

Dogs should never be considered companions for goats and although some goats will bond to other farm animals, we can not stress enough that goats should have another goat for a friend.

One exception to this "rule" is goats as horse companions.  Certain goats make great companions for a lonely horse, but not all goats. We never recommend a baby or young goat as a horse companion.  There are things to consider, such as the goat being alone if you often take your horse out riding and dietary compatibility.  We have placed a number of goats as very successful horse companions but it does take the right goat.

Getting the right goats for your farm and family is an important part of successful goat ownership and we are happy to work with you to find just the right fit.

Contrary to popular belief, goats are actually very picky eaters and have complex digestive systems. Wethers (neutered males) have different dietary needs than does (females). Proper feeding is of utmost importance as feeding errors account for a large percentage of goat disease and death. 

Wethers: We recommend good quality orchard grass hay. If you feed a mixed hay of orchard grass and alfalfa, alfalfa should not exceed 10% as alfalfa is thought to contribute to the potential for urinary calculi (blocking). Grain is also thought to be a major contributor to urinary calculi so we recommend that wethers have a carefully monitored grain diet.

Does:  We recommend good quality orchard grass hay or a 50/50 mix of orchard grass and alfalfa. Alfalfa is not a health concern for does but we do not recommend a 100% alfalfa diet.   

Timothy hay is also an option for both wethers and does. However, in our experience, it tends to have more stems and we see more hay waste when feeding timothy hay.   

In winter months, goats should always have hay available to them in their shelter. Even if there is lots of browse left in their pasture, winter browse does not contain enough nutrients to sustain goats for the long winter months. Goats tend to avoid leaving their shelter during rainy weather so it’s important that they have access to hay where they will likely be spending most of their time. On cold nights they will munch on their hay throughout the night and generate their own heat to stay warm. 

Salt is another important aspect to a goat’s diet, especially for wethers (neutered males). Loose mineralized salt is preferable over a traditional salt block and should be always be available to the goats. Offering both is a great option as well. We also recommend that goats have access to baking soda which can help aid digestion.

Goats are natural browsers and their ideal home has a pasture with a variety of grass, woody plants and weeds. Blackberry, salmonberry as well as alder, fir and maple trees are some of their favorites.

CAUTION: It is very important to understand the plants that are in your goats pasture and along its outer fence line as there are many ornamental plants which are very poisonous to goats. In many cases, it can take only a few leaves, fresh or dry, to fatally poison a goat. Unfortunately, these ornamental plants taste good to goats so they do not have any innate sense that they are deadly toxic to them. 

Goats should always have easy access to fresh, clean water. Water consumption is especially critical for preventing urinary calculi in wethers. You want to encourage them to drink as much and as often as possible. The water source should be located in the shelter or just outside the shelter as goats generally won’t go out in inclement weather to get to it. During very cold and freezing weather, make sure the water isn’t frozen or very cold. Since goats don't like drinking very cold water, hammering a hole in the water bucket usually won’t do the trick. We recommend offering them warm water during freezing temperatures. We can tell you from experience, they love it!  Tank heaters are a second best option, but there is nothing like a warm bucket of water on a cold morning!

• Goat pastures should be completely fenced on all 4 sides of the pasture. A wall of blackberry bushes or brush is not a fence line. Goats will eat their way through it in no time at all.
• Good fencing options include  2”x4” no climb field fence, chain link, cattle panels or other sturdy, heavy gauge wire fencing.  3 or 4 rail fencing will also work if it is well lined with heavy gauge field fencing that is securely attached to the rail fencing. New Zealand high tensile electric fencing can also work well with most goats if it has appropriately spaced lines to prevent goats from squeezing under, or dogs and other predators from squeezing in.
• Fencing should be sturdily built and tightly strung.  If you are using field fencing, corners of the fencing should all have wooden corner posts.  Over time, metal t-posts struggle to maintain tightly strung fencing and the fencing will start to break down and sag. 
• Fences, ideally, should be at least 5 feet high. 4 foot high fencing can work with many goats but the taller the better for predator prevention.  A hot wire on the top of the fence line is added assurance to keep them in and to deter predators and a hot wire on the outside of the bottom of the fence line will help to prevent predators from digging in. If hot wire is not used, then fencing should be recessed into the ground or you can place a foot wide strip of field fencing, laid flat along the outer fence line and attached to the fence, so that predators can not easily dig under.
• It is a good idea to fence off or wrap fencing around any trees in the pasture with crooks in them that goats can get their legs or necks caught in.      

• Sagging or loose fencing are weak areas predators will use to enter into your pastures or areas where your goats may get out.
• Having a fence line next to any boulders, stumps or hills that goats could use to jump over the fence. Attention must also be paid to the outside of the fence line as well, so predators such as dogs and coyotes cannot use them to jump into the pasture.

Each year, goats are taken in and re-homed from homes where their companions were killed by commonly known predators or dogs. There are a few different things you can do to help prevent this kind of tragedy. 

Good fencing with safety measures is of upmost importance. Predators are quick to spot weaknesses in fencing in order to gain access to your goats.

Commonly known predators to goats are coyotes, cougars and bears. Living in an area that has room for goats often means you live in an area with goat predators, even if you have never seen them. Closing goats into their shelter, with hay and water, from dusk to dawn is strongly recommended as predators often hunt during this time. This is especially the case for young or small goats who are even more vulnerable. It is important to note, coyotes hunt during the daytime too, especially when they are feeding their pups.

Even your own dog could be a threat to your goats.

Domestic dogs can be a big threat to goats. Loose dogs can dig under fencing or jump over weak spots in a fence. Dogs should never be allowed to "play" with goats and should never be left unattended in the same pasture. The line between “play” and “prey” with dogs can often be very thin. An exception to this is livestock guardian dogs who are trained from birth to protect livestock.  

Goats with room to roam are happy goats!  Goats are natural browsers and are healthiest and happiest with room to roam, graze and browse. Goats are very intelligent and they love to have things to climb and play on such as tree stumps or wooden picnic tables. The more space, the better. Housing goats in a “pen” would be similar to keeping a dog in a dog kennel its whole life. Certain breeds of goats are more appropriate if you have a smaller space. 

Pastures should always be well fenced and goats should never be staked out or free to roam unfenced property.  

Goats in yards
There are instances where goats in "yards" can work but there are specific things that need to be present for it to be successful.   A non-landscaped yard with natural vegetation and very good fencing can work if the yard is big enough and the space is not shared with dogs. The space needs to be free, as do all goat pastures, of poisonous plants both in their immediate area and surrounding fence lines. There should be separation between your home and the goat area. Goats are very curious and love to be close to their people and without a barrier they will likely inhabit what you hope to be a "non goat" area. Plus, they will make quick work of any young trees, flowers and shrubs you may want to keep. 

Goats are homebodies and love to take comfort in their shelter. There are a few things to consider when creating a safe and comfortable shelter for your goats.

Goats tend to spend a fair amount of time in their shelters during the winter months and in rainy weather. As such, the goats’ shelter should give them enough room to be able to stand up and move around. Also there must be room for a hay feeder and water source. We recommend a minimum of an 8 x10 shelter for two standard size goats. It is important to make sure that their hay is available in the shelter and is protected from rain. An overhang area off of the shelter is an added bonus as during rainy weather goats may opt to spend time there and not soil their shelter so quickly.

The shelter should be as close to your home as possible. Pet goats love to be close to their people and they are more comfortable and safe with a shelter that is close to your home and not off in a far corner of their pasture. 

The shelter should be dry and draft free but not air tight. Dry is the most important factor for bedding. There are a number of different bedding options. We have found that putting wood stove pellets over flooring such as mats, or a dirt floor, helps to absorb moisture and keep the area dry. The pellets will break down naturally and can be mixed with straw or white pine shavings. Straw can be a bit challenging as it tends to hold in moisture and urine smell and if you have limited space, it can present a composting issue as well. It is important to make sure the goats aren’t bedding down in an area that is damp or has a strong urine smell which can lead to respiratory problems.

OTHER HELPFUL TIPS:

• Dogloos and dog houses are not appropriate winter shelters for any breed of goat, small or large.
• Logistically, it is helpful to have your hay storage adjacent to or part of the same structure as the shelter to make feeding as convenient as possible.
• Healthy goats do not need heat, heat lamps or goat coats. During the winter, goats need good quality hay to eat throughout the night. This will allow them to generate their own heat and keep warm. 
• Goat‘s water should be in or just outside their shelter area so they can consume enough water during winter months. If they must go out in the rain to get to their water, they will often instead opt to not drink which can lead to serious health issues. 
• If you live in a high predator area, the goats' shelter should be able to be closed up at night. Goats should be secured in their shelter with good hay and water from dusk to dawn when predators are most active.

Know the signs… In addition to having your vet visit your goats for an annual health check, we highly advise calling your vet immediately if your goat is not eating, is lethargic or if your wethers are straining to urinate. Goats' symptoms of illness or complications are often subtle. Knowing your goats' personalities and regular behaviors and noticing any slight change may very well save their lives!

Knowing and paying close attention to your goats and their behavior is imperative to catching any ailments that may come up. Like many animals, goats will mask symptoms of illness. By the time you see symptoms it is important to act quickly with the care of a veterinarian. If your goat shows any of the signs below, call your vet immediately. It is also important to create a goat first aid kit to have on hand. (see below)

• Changes in behavior
• Loss of appetite
• Anemic
• Weight loss
• Severe diarrhea
• Wet persistent cough
• Green or yellow snotty nose
• Lethargy
• Grinding of teeth (indication of pain, usually stomach related)
• Wounds

If you suspect your goat has been eaten something poisonous, call your vet immediately.

Signs of poisoning:

• Wailing
• Frequently lying down then getting back up again
• Foaming at mouth or green oral discharge
• Vomiting

This condition can become life threatening very quickly. If you see the following symptoms in your wether, call your vet right away.

• Straining to urinate
• Noticeably uncomfortable
• Crying while urinating
• Stretching

There are several kinds of pneumonia that can affect goats. The symptoms to watch for are yellow/green nasal discharge, a disinterest in food, depression, rattly cough and fever; (101.5 to 103.5 is normal) Contact your vet immediately if you suspect pneumonia in your goat.

Learning to take your goat’s temperature is simple and a sometimes necessary skill to learn and rest assured it doesn’t cause the goat any pain. A digital thermometer is used, rectally. Normal temperature range for goats is 101.5—103.5. 

Below is a list of items that should be in your goat first aid kit. Please note, some of these items should only be used on the advice of your vet. However, having them on hand can save time during life threatening situations.

• Digital thermometer* 
• Probios (probiotic paste)
• Topical antiseptic
• Blood stop powder

• Activated charcoal gel (charcoal paste will also work it is harder to use)
  • Keep one tube per goat in your herd on hand at all times
• Aspirin
• Children's Benadryl Syrup
• Syringes for oral medicating (variety of sizes, 3 cc, 6 cc and 12 cc)

* Learning to take your goat’s temperature is simple and a sometimes necessary skill to learn and rest assured it doesn’t cause the goat any pain. A digital thermometer is used, rectally. Normal temperature range for goats is 101.5—103.5. Low temp is usually rumen/stomach related and a high temp is indicative of infection.